MFW: Versace Fall/Winter 2009

Donatella Versace was very true to the Versace house when she created this collection, which means it was sexy, sexy, SEXY. The eighties and music were a reference for Donatella - the emphasized shoulders and day-glo colors. For autumn, she experimented with textures as well, superimposing a metallic finish on to slim-fit trousers and nappa leather pencil skirts , so that the effect looked three-dimensional. A lot of the colors came from under the sea - turquoise, cobalt and kingfisher blue. Some dresses, with their fishtail skirts of oversized paillettes, evoked a mermaid's tail. This effect was enhanced even further by the models' slicked-back hair that made them look recently risen from the sea. In fluid satin jersey, in colours from bright fuchsia to oil-slick black, these dresses ruled the catwalk, their simplicity set off by metal belts stamped with the Versace logo. The shoes were simply fantastic as well, they were double platform and 15 cm high.

MFW: Fendi Fall/Winter 2009

Fendi this season marched to a very serious beat. Clothes being mostly dark and reserved, with hits of a crimson red. Models paraded in sharp, square shoulders and raw textures. Which were minute dustings of fur or mohair and treated semi-destroyed flannel, burned-out chiffon, and cashmere. The collection showed strong silhouettes and high end luxurious furs, of course. Mink furs had been designed with clinged white gold (extraordinary isn't it?). What I noticed in this collection was the absence of furs being the central grand emphasis, some past seasons, Fendi showed collections that like fur was EVERYWHERE. This season, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini really embraced Fendi's more Ready-To-Wear appeal, not just Fendi's fur crafting skills.

MFW: Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2009

Dolce & Gabbana showed a delightful collection this season, keeping mostly to a black and white color pallet with hits of colors, but mostly seen pink, which was the show's key color. Showing a vast use of elements, such as visual tricks, random association, and mystery, they looked towards the Surrealist movement as their inspiration. You can see how it was associated by just looking at the leather gloves used as scarves and hats. This collection was like a blender of this season's fall trends; the shoulder emphasis, the neon fuchsia, elaborate furs, the crimson lip, and leopard print. The collection featured a black cocktail dress with huge ruffled shoulders, a mirrored suit with fur pouf shoulders, a jacket with mink shoulders, and a pouf-shouldered checkered dress woven fromb strips of lack-and-white ribbon. The detailing was intricate and spectacular, I feel in love with the gorgeous head bands and enormous eshair bows! Jus, they were amazing. I love that Dolce & Gabbana makes these lovely head pieces, the spring 09 collection has some to-die-for ones. I really loved the furs, they were so luxurious and rich. What I thought was remarkable was the Marilyn Monroe homage, seen on a number of dresses and on the end's finale gowns.

Here's the video of the runway presentation:

part I:


part II:

MFW: Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2009

After last season's presentation of pitiful taste, Cristina Ortiz had to do something to improve her status at Ferragamo, and she definitely did this season. This collection was polished and feminine, working around a rose theme, which she worked into jewelery and delicately curved hems and seams. There was definitely a romance in the collection, showing structured draped, folded and pleated details on sheaths. Tailoring is obviously done beautifully, like the hunched shoulder jackets, cropped trouser and pencil skirts.
For evening, she decided to flash some skin, and put more focus on architectural structure.

MFW: Gucci Fall/Winter 2009

GUCCI ♥ God, Frida Giannini never fails to impress.

This season, targeting nightclubbing girls, the designer ignored sheer elegance and definitely delivered with a glamorous androgynous allure. Before the show, Giannini stated that this season, the Gucci girl is a dangerous woman, she’s a tough woman. She’s not shy. She wants to stand out and she's very strong and independent. And that's clearly projected onto her collection. The legwear was to DIE for. Showing dangerous thigh-high boots under micro-minidresses, leggings patchworked in suede,patent, and leather, which were paired with boldly shouldered jackets. Tops were also seen in kimono T-shirts style and drapey iridescent-crystal mesh dresses. The runway was paraded with sequins, paillettes, lamés, and Lurex. It was all about hard Glamour. The sky-high shoes were another thing that was simply fantastic, and I'm sure these will be a very coveted shoe this fall. The pump version of the show from the front, In my opinion, looked very much like Yves St Laurent's Trib Two Platforms which are all over the place at the moment. The sunglasses were striking as well, they had pitch black, mirrored lenses.

MFW: Alessandro Dell'Aqua Fall/Winter 2009

After all the tough-as-nails tailoring, sharp shoulders, noisy, eighties references were seen all over the runways this season, Alessandro Dell'Aqua shows a relatively soft and low key collection, especially in the start of the show. Like the slouchy tame oatmeal-colored blazer with gently frayed edges seen on Raquel Zimmerman she opened the show with. Which is quite refreshing for the house, considering Dell’Acqua isn't really your casual go to designer. Feature in the collection were chain-mail knitwear tunics, body-conscious bustier dresses, also seen in metal hardware, feather accents and mink, muskrat, and fox pelts. The bags were embellished with swingy fur tails and the shoes were needled heeled, which came in crocodile and , suede straps.

MFW: Blumarine Fall/Winter 2009

Designer Anna Molinari's mission to keep bubbly girls happy in these bad times was quite clear. The collection was a pop art extravaganza, which is quite clear just by looking at the backdrop which was a collage of Molinari’s Andy Warhol portraits. The show kicked off in animal spots of varying sizes on buttonless coats, creamy knits, and pony-hair jackets. Psychedelic graffiti prints on micro dresses, candy-colored nylon biker jackets, matching minis and skinny jean were all clearly referenced with Pop Art. Also shown were sugar pastel satin mini-suits, flower print leggings, and neon leopard chiffon disco gowns. They were all accessorized with massive rhinestone jewelry. The shoes, which were either sandals and booties, were fabulous, coming in leopard print, black leather and rhinestone crystal encrusted.

MFW: Emilio Pucci Fall/Winter 2009

This collection really was one of my favorites so far in Milan. Definitely a collection for the leggy ladies who favor big furs and will look great in minidresses emblazoned with a zigzag pastiche of lace, sequins, and, denim. That pattern , shown on several dresses in different fabrications was actually inspired by a classic Pucci print, created by the founder's 1957 collection.
Peter Dundas proves that Pucci can go beyond prints. This being his first collection for the house, he is totally moving the house to a new direction. Started with a new venue, which was chosen to reflect the splendor of Palazzo Pucci in Florence. And new clothes for the chic, and sexy party girl. This is a theme that Dundas played with during his time at Ungaro, where one season’s collection was an to his love of the nightclubbing scene.
Abstracted on knit sweaters and dresses, were cutouts and embroideries.

MFW: D&G Fall/Winter 2009

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took the rococo grandeur of last season’s Dolce & Gabbana collection and spun it into a showstopping night at the opera for D&G this season. The collection featured capes which came in a ocelot-print ponyskin version and another in gray fur with a collar, Bustier dresses with lampshade miniskirts that came in brocade, tapestry-print chiffon, or jewel-studded velvet, a bustier top was paired with high-waisted jeans encrusted with big, colorful crystals. It seemed like some of the fabrics were high end furniture fabrics, and the color pallet was filled with burgundy, black, ocher, and cadet blue. Down a red carpeted runway, models paraded in high platform shoes and curtain swags in their hair.
The collection was simply rich, divine and ethereal. I fell in love with the a dress worn by model Magdalena, which was a black dress, which really looks reminiscent of the Gothic Lolita style of dressing, It's pictured as the third look in the first series of photos below.

Here's the full show video:

MFW: Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2009

Christopher Bailey’s fall collection for Burberry Prorsum, was poetic and completely charming. The collection's theme was of English arty intellectuals of the Bloomsbury group of the twenties and thirties. Baily showed the modern version of the house today, beginning with a beautiful trench done in khaki suede. Then there was seen, amazing outerwear, trenches that came in twills and tweeds, some with voluminous, knife-pleated skirts worn over waisted light silk dresses and darkly romantic in deep purple and blues hues. To add texture he used chunky, laminated knits and rich velvets. I fell in love with the silk chiffon dresses printed with portraits of aristocrats.
This collection definitely will give buyers an easy way to dress for fall, but will still be very modern and chic. That's one of the elements I love at Burberry, even though I love daring clothing, Baily definitely shows something that's rich and extremely fashion forward, yet also very wearable. The chunky footwear was simply heavenly, I love Burberry shoes!

Here's the full show:

part I:


part II:

MFW: Iceberg Fall/Winter 2009

Designer Paolo Gerani went all out glamour this season. Styled with aggression, he went over the top with inflated proportions in down-filled or shaggy fur coats and gigantic knits that swallowed his body-skimming dresses. Some of this season's fall trends were all over this collection; red lips, fur, dangerous volume, neons, and chunky knits. This collection features some very body conscious looks, and also a continuation of last season's Jeff Koons prints. Which created a harmony with the collection's aggressiveness.

MFW: Moschino Fall/Winter 2009

At Moschino, designer Rosella Jardin's feminine-masculine theme collection was lovely. The show started out with a series of all-navy numbers, a seemingly tailored trench and jacket were actually subtle trompe l’oeil knits. Followed by romantic floral, giant rose prints covered sheaths, frothy cocktail frocks and full-sleeved coats, on top of which she piled the petal appliqués divinely. The presentation was fantastic, models walked through and out of make believe changing rooms.
We can see some new york trends taking place here as well, like the scandalous gloves some models wore.

MFW: Missoni Fall/Winter 2009

For young designer, Angela Missoni, inheriting a house with one of the most distinctive signatures in fashion has been both a blessing and a challenge. But this fall Missoni stayed true to the label’s roots; knitwear. While still producing something fresh and fabulous. It was all about knits, with that said there were layers — lots of them. Cardigans, long and short, some trailing into extra-long scarves; lamé miniskirts and shorts; silk slip dresses; ribbed leggings; elaborately knit jogging pants, and loads of swaddling hooded scarves. Things were piled on elaborately in a way that worked and look very refined yet chic. One combination after another, the soft textures also had a luminous pallet, pinks, peaches and glittery golds, shot with the occasional pop of cobalt blue, which was done just right.

There were some webby knit dresses that had a comparison to Rodarte, But taking into consideration Missoni's history with the signature, it's safe to say that Missoni's been there before.

Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2009 schedule

Here's the show schedule for the shows at Milan Fashion Week, Although it's not 100% complete, it's the only updated source I found, and has most of the show presentations, at least the major ones. The places in which the shows will be taking place is also featured.

Once again, in red are the shows I'm most anticipated to see.

Wednesday February 25, 2009
11:00 am ELENA MIRO Milano moda donna sala Spiga
12:00 pm NEW UPCOMING DESIGNERS Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
1:00 pm LUCIANO SOPRANI Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
2:00 pm REGENERATION FASHION FROM AROUND THE WORLD Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
2:45 pm LORENZO RIVA Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
3:30 pm TBD Milano moda donna sala Spiga
4:15 pm SEDUZIONI DIAMONDS VALERIA MARINI Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
5:00 pm CLIPS Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
5:45 pm SONIA FORTUNA Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso

Thursday February 26, 2009
9:45 am ENRICO COVERI Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
10:30 am KRISTINA TI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
11:15 am ROCCOBAROCCO Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
12:00 pm GAETANO NAVARRA Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
1:00 pm FRANKIE MORELLO Milano moda donna sala Spiga
2:00 pm BLUGIRL Milano moda donna velodromo Vigorelli
3:00 pm JUST CAVALLI Milano moda donna sala Senato
4:00 pm EMPORIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
5:00 pm EMPORIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
6:00 pm MISSONI piazza Cavour, 3
6:00 pm DANIELA GREGIS piazza Santambrogio 23/A
7:00 pm MISSONI piazza Cavour, 3
8:00 pm MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC via Bezzecca, 5
9:00 pm ROBERTO MUSSO via Vannucci, 16

Friday February 27, 2009
9:15 am BYBLOS Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
10:00 am ERMANNO SCERVINO Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
10:45 am CNC COSTUME NATIONAL Milano moda donna sala Spiga
11:30 am GIORGIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
12:30 pm GIORGIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
3:00 pm GIANFRANCO FERRE via Pontaccio, 21
4:00 pm GIANFRANCO FERRE via Pontaccio, 21
4:00 pm DEBORA SINIBALDI foro Buonaparte, 50
5:00 pm BURBERRY PRORSUM corso Venezia, 16
6:00 pm ALBERTA FERRETTI via Senato, 10
7:00 pm JIL SANDER via Beltrami, 5
8:00 pm JIL SANDER via Beltrami, 5
9:00 pm GABRIELE COLANGELO tbd

Saturday February 28, 2009
10:00 am PAOLA FRANI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
10:45 am BLUMARINE Milano moda donna velodromo Vigorelli
11:30 am SPORTMAX Milano moda donna sala Babila
12:15 pm MAURIZIO PECORARO Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
1:00 pm ETRO via Piranesi, 14
2:00 pm EMILIO PUCCI corso Venezia, 16
3:00 pm MOSCHINO via Senato, 10
4:00 pm KRIZIA via Manin, 21
5:00 pm ALBERTO BIANI viale Piaze, 42
6:00 pm GUCCI piazza Oberdan, 2/B
7:00 pm GUCCI piazza Oberdan, 2/B
8:00 pm BRIONI via Turati, 34
9:00 pm ALESSANDRO DELLACQUA tbd

Sunday March 1, 2009
9:45 am VALENTIN YUDASHKIN Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
10:30 am ANGELO MARANI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
11:15 am MARIELLA BURANI Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
12:00 pm ANTONIO MARRAS Milano moda donna sala Spiga
1:00 pm ROBERTO CAVALLI Milano moda donna sala Senato
2:00 pm SALVATORE FERRAGAMO piazza Affari, 6
3:00 pm TRUSSARDI tbd
4:00 pm ICEBERG via Palermo, 10
5:00 pm ALBINO tbd
6:00 pm PRADA via Fogazzaro, 36
7:00 pm PRADA via Fogazzaro, 36
8:00 pm AQUILANO E RIMONDI tbd
9:00 pm FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO tbd

Monday March 2, 2009
9:15 am TBD Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
10:00 am DSQUARED2 Milano moda donna sala Senato
10:45 am MAX MARA Milano moda donna sala Babila
11:30 am LES COPAINS Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
12:15 pm PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Milano moda donna sala Spiga
1:00 pm LAURA BIAGIOTTI via Rivoli, 6
3:00 pm JOHN RICHMOND giardini di porta Venezia - via Palestro
4:00 pm FENDI via Sciesa, 3
5:00 pm FENDI via Sciesa, 3
6:00 pm POLLINI via Bezzecca, 5
6:45 pm TBD tbd
7:30 pm VERSACE piazza Vetra, 1
8:30 pm VERSACE piazza Vetra, 1

Tuesday March 3, 2009
10:00 am CIVIDINI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
10:45 am AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA Milano moda donna sala Spiga
11:30 am LOVE SEX MONEY Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
12:15 pm THES & THES Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
1:00 pm ANNABELLA Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
1:45 pm ANTEPRIMA Milano moda donna sala Spiga
2:30 pm MILA SCHON Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
3:15 pm .IT Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
4:00 pm TER ET BANTINE tbd
5:00 pm NORMALUISA via Fiori Oscuri, 4
6:00 pm CARLO TIVIOLI via Turati, 34
7:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
8:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2

Wednesday March 4, 2009
10:30 am CARLA CARINI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
11:15 am MASSIMO REBECCHI Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
12:00 pm KIRA PASTININA Milano moda donna sala Spiga
1:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
2:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
3:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
4:00 pm ALVIERO MARTINI via Argelati, 1/A