Saturday, February 28, 2009

MFW: Emilio Pucci Fall/Winter 2009

This collection really was one of my favorites so far in Milan. Definitely a collection for the leggy ladies who favor big furs and will look great in minidresses emblazoned with a zigzag pastiche of lace, sequins, and, denim. That pattern , shown on several dresses in different fabrications was actually inspired by a classic Pucci print, created by the founder's 1957 collection.
Peter Dundas proves that Pucci can go beyond prints. This being his first collection for the house, he is totally moving the house to a new direction. Started with a new venue, which was chosen to reflect the splendor of Palazzo Pucci in Florence. And new clothes for the chic, and sexy party girl. This is a theme that Dundas played with during his time at Ungaro, where one season’s collection was an to his love of the nightclubbing scene.
Abstracted on knit sweaters and dresses, were cutouts and embroideries.

MFW: D&G Fall/Winter 2009

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took the rococo grandeur of last season’s Dolce & Gabbana collection and spun it into a showstopping night at the opera for D&G this season. The collection featured capes which came in a ocelot-print ponyskin version and another in gray fur with a collar, Bustier dresses with lampshade miniskirts that came in brocade, tapestry-print chiffon, or jewel-studded velvet, a bustier top was paired with high-waisted jeans encrusted with big, colorful crystals. It seemed like some of the fabrics were high end furniture fabrics, and the color pallet was filled with burgundy, black, ocher, and cadet blue. Down a red carpeted runway, models paraded in high platform shoes and curtain swags in their hair.
The collection was simply rich, divine and ethereal. I fell in love with the a dress worn by model Magdalena, which was a black dress, which really looks reminiscent of the Gothic Lolita style of dressing, It's pictured as the third look in the first series of photos below.


Here's the full show video:


MFW: Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2009

Christopher Bailey’s fall collection for Burberry Prorsum, was poetic and completely charming. The collection's theme was of English arty intellectuals of the Bloomsbury group of the twenties and thirties. Baily showed the modern version of the house today, beginning with a beautiful trench done in khaki suede. Then there was seen, amazing outerwear, trenches that came in twills and tweeds, some with voluminous, knife-pleated skirts worn over waisted light silk dresses and darkly romantic in deep purple and blues hues. To add texture he used chunky, laminated knits and rich velvets. I fell in love with the silk chiffon dresses printed with portraits of aristocrats.
This collection definitely will give buyers an easy way to dress for fall, but will still be very modern and chic. That's one of the elements I love at Burberry, even though I love daring clothing, Baily definitely shows something that's rich and extremely fashion forward, yet also very wearable. The chunky footwear was simply heavenly, I love Burberry shoes!


Here's the full show:

part I:


part II:

MFW: Iceberg Fall/Winter 2009

Designer Paolo Gerani went all out glamour this season. Styled with aggression, he went over the top with inflated proportions in down-filled or shaggy fur coats and gigantic knits that swallowed his body-skimming dresses. Some of this season's fall trends were all over this collection; red lips, fur, dangerous volume, neons, and chunky knits. This collection features some very body conscious looks, and also a continuation of last season's Jeff Koons prints. Which created a harmony with the collection's aggressiveness.


MFW: Moschino Fall/Winter 2009

At Moschino, designer Rosella Jardin's feminine-masculine theme collection was lovely. The show started out with a series of all-navy numbers, a seemingly tailored trench and jacket were actually subtle trompe l’oeil knits. Followed by romantic floral, giant rose prints covered sheaths, frothy cocktail frocks and full-sleeved coats, on top of which she piled the petal appliqués divinely. The presentation was fantastic, models walked through and out of make believe changing rooms.
We can see some new york trends taking place here as well, like the scandalous gloves some models wore.

Friday, February 27, 2009

MFW: Missoni Fall/Winter 2009

For young designer, Angela Missoni, inheriting a house with one of the most distinctive signatures in fashion has been both a blessing and a challenge. But this fall Missoni stayed true to the label’s roots; knitwear. While still producing something fresh and fabulous. It was all about knits, with that said there were layers — lots of them. Cardigans, long and short, some trailing into extra-long scarves; lamé miniskirts and shorts; silk slip dresses; ribbed leggings; elaborately knit jogging pants, and loads of swaddling hooded scarves. Things were piled on elaborately in a way that worked and look very refined yet chic. One combination after another, the soft textures also had a luminous pallet, pinks, peaches and glittery golds, shot with the occasional pop of cobalt blue, which was done just right.

There were some webby knit dresses that had a comparison to Rodarte, But taking into consideration Missoni's history with the signature, it's safe to say that Missoni's been there before.


Thursday, February 26, 2009

Atelier Versace Spring 2009

Donatella Versace does private appointment in January for Atelier Versace, instead of a Haute Couture presentation. The collection is modeled by Georgina Stojiljkovic, which is her second time in a row(?) modeling for Atelier Versace. I love this model, her lips are amazing and she's so unique. I've been keeping an eye on her ever since she started out, which wasn't too many seasons ago. She's still quite new.

Anyways, all the gowns are amazing and you can imagine seeing each and every one of them on the red carpet.





























Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2009 schedule

Here's the show schedule for the shows at Milan Fashion Week, Although it's not 100% complete, it's the only updated source I found, and has most of the show presentations, at least the major ones. The places in which the shows will be taking place is also featured.

Once again, in red are the shows I'm most anticipated to see.

Wednesday February 25, 2009
11:00 am ELENA MIRO Milano moda donna sala Spiga
12:00 pm NEW UPCOMING DESIGNERS Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
1:00 pm LUCIANO SOPRANI Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
2:00 pm REGENERATION FASHION FROM AROUND THE WORLD Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
2:45 pm LORENZO RIVA Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
3:30 pm TBD Milano moda donna sala Spiga
4:15 pm SEDUZIONI DIAMONDS VALERIA MARINI Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
5:00 pm CLIPS Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
5:45 pm SONIA FORTUNA Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso

Thursday February 26, 2009
9:45 am ENRICO COVERI Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
10:30 am KRISTINA TI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
11:15 am ROCCOBAROCCO Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
12:00 pm GAETANO NAVARRA Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
1:00 pm FRANKIE MORELLO Milano moda donna sala Spiga
2:00 pm BLUGIRL Milano moda donna velodromo Vigorelli
3:00 pm JUST CAVALLI Milano moda donna sala Senato
4:00 pm EMPORIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
5:00 pm EMPORIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
6:00 pm MISSONI piazza Cavour, 3
6:00 pm DANIELA GREGIS piazza Santambrogio 23/A
7:00 pm MISSONI piazza Cavour, 3
8:00 pm MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC via Bezzecca, 5
9:00 pm ROBERTO MUSSO via Vannucci, 16

Friday February 27, 2009
9:15 am BYBLOS Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
10:00 am ERMANNO SCERVINO Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
10:45 am CNC COSTUME NATIONAL Milano moda donna sala Spiga
11:30 am GIORGIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
12:30 pm GIORGIO ARMANI via Bergognone, 59
3:00 pm GIANFRANCO FERRE via Pontaccio, 21
4:00 pm GIANFRANCO FERRE via Pontaccio, 21
4:00 pm DEBORA SINIBALDI foro Buonaparte, 50
5:00 pm BURBERRY PRORSUM corso Venezia, 16
6:00 pm ALBERTA FERRETTI via Senato, 10
7:00 pm JIL SANDER via Beltrami, 5
8:00 pm JIL SANDER via Beltrami, 5
9:00 pm GABRIELE COLANGELO tbd

Saturday February 28, 2009
10:00 am PAOLA FRANI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
10:45 am BLUMARINE Milano moda donna velodromo Vigorelli
11:30 am SPORTMAX Milano moda donna sala Babila
12:15 pm MAURIZIO PECORARO Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
1:00 pm ETRO via Piranesi, 14
2:00 pm EMILIO PUCCI corso Venezia, 16
3:00 pm MOSCHINO via Senato, 10
4:00 pm KRIZIA via Manin, 21
5:00 pm ALBERTO BIANI viale Piaze, 42
6:00 pm GUCCI piazza Oberdan, 2/B
7:00 pm GUCCI piazza Oberdan, 2/B
8:00 pm BRIONI via Turati, 34
9:00 pm ALESSANDRO DELLACQUA tbd

Sunday March 1, 2009
9:45 am VALENTIN YUDASHKIN Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
10:30 am ANGELO MARANI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
11:15 am MARIELLA BURANI Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
12:00 pm ANTONIO MARRAS Milano moda donna sala Spiga
1:00 pm ROBERTO CAVALLI Milano moda donna sala Senato
2:00 pm SALVATORE FERRAGAMO piazza Affari, 6
3:00 pm TRUSSARDI tbd
4:00 pm ICEBERG via Palermo, 10
5:00 pm ALBINO tbd
6:00 pm PRADA via Fogazzaro, 36
7:00 pm PRADA via Fogazzaro, 36
8:00 pm AQUILANO E RIMONDI tbd
9:00 pm FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO tbd

Monday March 2, 2009
9:15 am TBD Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
10:00 am DSQUARED2 Milano moda donna sala Senato
10:45 am MAX MARA Milano moda donna sala Babila
11:30 am LES COPAINS Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
12:15 pm PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Milano moda donna sala Spiga
1:00 pm LAURA BIAGIOTTI via Rivoli, 6
3:00 pm JOHN RICHMOND giardini di porta Venezia - via Palestro
4:00 pm FENDI via Sciesa, 3
5:00 pm FENDI via Sciesa, 3
6:00 pm POLLINI via Bezzecca, 5
6:45 pm TBD tbd
7:30 pm VERSACE piazza Vetra, 1
8:30 pm VERSACE piazza Vetra, 1

Tuesday March 3, 2009
10:00 am CIVIDINI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
10:45 am AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA Milano moda donna sala Spiga
11:30 am LOVE SEX MONEY Milano moda donna sala Montenapoleone
12:15 pm THES & THES Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
1:00 pm ANNABELLA Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
1:45 pm ANTEPRIMA Milano moda donna sala Spiga
2:30 pm MILA SCHON Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
3:15 pm .IT Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
4:00 pm TER ET BANTINE tbd
5:00 pm NORMALUISA via Fiori Oscuri, 4
6:00 pm CARLO TIVIOLI via Turati, 34
7:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
8:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2

Wednesday March 4, 2009
10:30 am CARLA CARINI Milano moda donna sala Borgospesso
11:15 am MASSIMO REBECCHI Milano moda donna sala Manzoni
12:00 pm KIRA PASTININA Milano moda donna sala Spiga
1:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
2:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
3:00 pm TBD via Valenza, 2
4:00 pm ALVIERO MARTINI via Argelati, 1/A

Monday, February 23, 2009

NYFW Fall/Winter 2009 Review/Trends

New York, aught to be the best place to study fashion's response to the global financial crisis. The shows were much more focused and organized. Designers took more responsibility and cut back on the amount of money spent on the shows, celebrities and parties were noticeably more absent if not at all completely. Marc Jacobs for example, there were no present celebrities in the front row. The focus was really on the clothes and the quality was definitely more enriched. Everyone is really thinking more carefully and creatively about what they put out on the runway. American Vogue's Anna Wintour stated that what we need to see this season are smaller collections with a real point of view.

Here are some NYFW Fall 2009 Trends :


Day Glow/Neon Colors;
An electric color pallet was very present in New York. Fuschia popping up at shows like Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors, lime green at Narciso Rodriguez and Bensoni. But Marc Jacobs definitely took it all one step further. Including metallic cerulean minis, lemon capes, and hot-pink hooded jackets in his Stephen Sprouse eighties inspired collection. We also saw very neon colors on dresses and furs at Michael Kors, and very flashy fur hats as well. Definitely very different from the usual black, gray, and beige fall color pallet.

The Bold Shoulder;
Shoulders are anything but demure this fall. The bigger the better, which Marc Jacobs definitely took that quite and worked it to the extremes. Karen Walker took the traditional blazer and introduced it to the strong shoulders as well. Frank Tell and Miss Sixty took extra fabrics to create cloud-life poufs. Donna Karren as well showed a very strong shoulder on her belted jackets. Hervé Léger by Max Azria also introduced this trend to their classical bondage dress, taking it one step further.

Look-At-Me Gloves;
The gloves seen at New York weren't the kind you shove in your pocket and just keep warm, as seen at Proenza Schouler, Max Azria, Elie Tahari, and other designers - these gloves make a statement and beg to be noticed.

Leather Pants;
This fall, leather pants are demanding fashionistas to ditch their dark jeans. Whipping up fit close to the body, we saw this trend take place in various collections. Such as Matthew Williamson, Derek Lam, Alexander Wang and Diane von Furstenberg.

The One Shoulder Dress;
Bringing attention to the face and the shoulder, we saw various combinations of the one shoulder dress . Designers like Charlotte Ronson, and Alexander Wang all had their versions of the One shoulder classic.