Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2009 Haute Couture

Eli Saab Spring 09 Haute Couture, presented on the last day of Haute Couture Fashion week which was of course, yesterday the 28th, was to me one of my favorite collections this HC season.

Eli Saab always amazes me in Couture.

The gowns were the epitome of high class and sophistication. Capturing the essence of femininity, they were made of chiffon, silk, and plenty of embellishments.

This collection was created all in pastel tones, which I love. It evoked a feeling of something quite dreamy and angelic. The details were impeccable. Gowns had floral appliqués, and sparkling embellishments, which were not over the top.

Ruffles, exaggerated hips, pouffy shoulders,tiers, and obi belts all helped create some outstanding red carpet gowns and dresses.

In the front row, there was the always chic and sophisticated Dita Von Teese. Dressed in all black Elie Saab fall 2008 , which was a jacket with large rosette details on the collar and cuffs, a pencil skirt, Christian Louboutin pumps, and a large bag, which was also detailed with rosettes.

Mischa Barton and Kanye West were also in the front row. Mischa was wearing a sparkling one-sleeved navy Elie Saab fall 2008 cocktail dress, with Cristian Louboutin's. WELL, she arrived in Louboutin's, but left the show in black Haute Couture 2009 Elie Saab heels which were in the actual show. She must have gotten them for free. Luckyyyyyy

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Valentino Spring/Summer 2009 Haute Couture

So There it is, Alessandra Facchinetti , former creative director for the house of Valentino left apparently due to clashes over design direction and production costs. Her design's price range increased, and with the increase, came less buyers. The designer has previously worked for Gucci and Moncler, her departure was confirmed by the company who cited "a misaligned vision with the company."

She will be replaced by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli who have been designing accessories alongside founder Valentino Garavani for ten years. ( curious isn't it?) The duo will become creative directors for all categories of the design house.

Their first collection after receiving the title as creative directors was of course, the S/S 2009 Haute Couture collection of today.

The first two things I instantly noticed was that Alessandra's signature heavy embellishments & embroidery were not too present. Embellishment was used in this collection, but it wasn't as present. And was in a lighter, more delicate fashion. Also I see a lot more of the house's signature red pieces. Alessandra when she was designer, did not incorporate a lot of red into her collections. This collection had some very rich colors, like the amazing Plum dress Tanya wore. I also loved the use of feathers in some dresses. It's clear that Maria & Pier captured much more of the Valentino essence then Alessandra did, yet still kept the collection very much their own. I'm sure they're there to stay. Don't get me wrong, I did like Alessandra Facchinetti's work, and she definitely delivers, I just think she wasn't right for the house of Valentino.

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri

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Giorgio Armani Privè Spring/Summer Haute Couture

Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Privè Collection was very exotic & mysterious. Inspired by Ancient Chang Hai & Oriental Culture. The prints & embroidery were spectacular, the shape of the shoulders & details on the blazer's wrist were very much like the ones seen in Chinese Samurai costumes. This collection had a diversity of textures, it featured everything, from vivid colors, black/white, embroidery, sequins, silk, leather, just everything. The dress that had me absolutely stunned was the dress Natasha Poly closed the show with, it was simply Divinity! A lot of models had on a black, cropped cut wig. Other had their hair tightly pulled back with a latex head band.

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Haute Couture Fashion Week,

The next huge event after the Screen Actors Guild Awards Ceremony is Haute Couture Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2009. Christian Dior , was the first big designer to present yesterday, John Galliano seemed to literally turn dresses inside out. The construction and detailing was impeccable, as usual. John Galliano definitely always makes his mark with Christian Dior during Haute Couture Fashion Week. The color pallet was very diverse. There was quite a lot of black & white in this collection, surprisingly. Bouffant sleeves were featured heavily, rounding off the shoulders, but it was not all about volume. Pencil skirts and narrow gowns provided a slinkier silhouette. The divine detail of blue and white Chinese Porcelain on some dresses really stood out to me. The shoes were lovely as well, they were these strappy heels with this elaborate heel, which reminded me of the smoke that's released from a Genie Lamp, haha.The presentation of the collection was amazing as well, the masterpieces were presented against a stain glass backdrop.

Givenchy was spectacular. The creamy pale colors were Divine. In stark contrast to Riccardo Tisci's very hard and edgy Spring 2009 RTW collection, this collection was ultra feminine with feathery chiffon layers, bouffant shoulders, visible corset under chiffon layers. The slight edge came with a few touches of leather, and heavy metal neck pieces. I loved the silhouettes & shoulders. The collection had a mystical yet slightly futuristic feel to it. The jewelry was heavenly. The pieces got darker towards the end, my favorite dress was worn by the lovely Lily Donaldson, which also closed the show. It was a magnificent black gown , with a criss-cross detail at the back, and the puffed shoulders sparkled with jeweled embellishment. The collection was paraded on a beautiful catwalk, decorated with flower pedals.

Some words from Tisci:
"It was a little bit of a step up for me, to challenge myself to use color and show more day wear, which is doing very well with clients."

Chanel Haute Couture impeccably chic. It was a breath of fresh air. Done up completely in the traditional Chanel color palette of black & white. The collection had sharp, very clean cuts. It can be seen that Roses had a huge part in this collection, as they were shown in various dresses & elaborate paper rosette head pieces which I thought were lovely. The long established, classical Chanel suit was recreated in new fabrics & textures. It was seen in PVC, appliqué, sequins, and light embroidery taking over from the bouclé This collection was actually very wearable, considering it's HC. The shoes though I found quite uninteresting. Surprisingly, Natasha Poly was not seen on the runway during this Chanel show, considering she's been the IT runway model of the moment.

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