NYFW Fall/Winter 2009 Review/Trends

New York, aught to be the best place to study fashion's response to the global financial crisis. The shows were much more focused and organized. Designers took more responsibility and cut back on the amount of money spent on the shows, celebrities and parties were noticeably more absent if not at all completely. Marc Jacobs for example, there were no present celebrities in the front row. The focus was really on the clothes and the quality was definitely more enriched. Everyone is really thinking more carefully and creatively about what they put out on the runway. American Vogue's Anna Wintour stated that what we need to see this season are smaller collections with a real point of view.

Here are some NYFW Fall 2009 Trends :

Day Glow/Neon Colors;
An electric color pallet was very present in New York. Fuschia popping up at shows like Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors, lime green at Narciso Rodriguez and Bensoni. But Marc Jacobs definitely took it all one step further. Including metallic cerulean minis, lemon capes, and hot-pink hooded jackets in his Stephen Sprouse eighties inspired collection. We also saw very neon colors on dresses and furs at Michael Kors, and very flashy fur hats as well. Definitely very different from the usual black, gray, and beige fall color pallet.

The Bold Shoulder;
Shoulders are anything but demure this fall. The bigger the better, which Marc Jacobs definitely took that quite and worked it to the extremes. Karen Walker took the traditional blazer and introduced it to the strong shoulders as well. Frank Tell and Miss Sixty took extra fabrics to create cloud-life poufs. Donna Karren as well showed a very strong shoulder on her belted jackets. Hervé Léger by Max Azria also introduced this trend to their classical bondage dress, taking it one step further.

Look-At-Me Gloves;
The gloves seen at New York weren't the kind you shove in your pocket and just keep warm, as seen at Proenza Schouler, Max Azria, Elie Tahari, and other designers - these gloves make a statement and beg to be noticed.

Leather Pants;
This fall, leather pants are demanding fashionistas to ditch their dark jeans. Whipping up fit close to the body, we saw this trend take place in various collections. Such as Matthew Williamson, Derek Lam, Alexander Wang and Diane von Furstenberg.

The One Shoulder Dress;
Bringing attention to the face and the shoulder, we saw various combinations of the one shoulder dress . Designers like Charlotte Ronson, and Alexander Wang all had their versions of the One shoulder classic.

NYFW: Anna Sui Fall/Winter 2009

Anna Sui's fall collection was a delightful extravaganza!
The collection was very romantic and inspired by the gaslight palette and art house aura of Toulouse-Lautrec paintings. Referencing the golden yellows, smoky blues and shots of pink that covered her trademark silk hippie dresses and velvet jackets, Sui explained, "I was reading Proust, and got really into turn-of-the-century France, the colors and bohemian spirit of that era,"
A collection with a lot of black but livened with many patterns and prints.
There was a festive mix of taffeta and chiffon dresses topped with jackets trimmed in feather and satin, and piled cardigans on print dresses with tulips, paisley, houndstooth, and ikat.
There was also a good show of embroidery, such as floral stitching on coats and dresses with beaded trims.

NYFW: Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2009

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernande at Proenza Schouler presented a spectacular collection of modern, edgy, and smoking cool clothing. The show began with outerwear, showing camel wool twill coats and jackets, then followed up by some tweed numbers like short and jacket sets - which were simply to die for, dropped waisted coat dresses and mini skirts. Which were very exciting. Layered on top of sheer fabrics were brightly colored velour and velvet, inserts it into wool and jersey dresses in a pattern that gives the dresses a futuristic edge. The shoes were very fantastic as well, coming in a bootie high heel version and as well a platform version.

NWFW: Rodarte Fall/Winter 2009

Kate and Laura Mulleavy at Rodarte produced a very amazing collection. I was blown away. They are very unique and innovative young designers. This collection was aggressive and yet very sweet. They really explore and experiment with techniques, using various materials and textures yet everything works so well. At the beginning of the show, a gray marble leather was shown along with elaborate knits with lots of fringe and tears. Marble actually was a referance of this collection, pale leathers and silk chiffons were printed or silk-screened to resemble veined gray stone. The thigh high boots were AMAZING, designed by the sensational Nicholas Kirkwood. They were featured in both black and a pallid gray. A lot of pieces had attached Swarvoski crystals to them, which was really delightful to see.

NYFW: Max Azria Fall/Winter 2009

This Max Azria fall collection had a very obvious goth aura to it. Yes there was a very dark feeling to it, but it was also very romantic. Max and Lubov Azria featured quite a lot of draping, some dresses were reminiscent of a goddess's dress, the collection included black lace bodysuits, mesh jacket, suede leggings, leather jackets mixed with stormy colored corsets and the occasional house signature, the bright jersey dress. There was also an exquisite plum chiffon gown with an asymmetrical hem and attached scarf that flowed very magically.There were also some pieces that sported a very fierce bold shoulder.
Aside from black, the color pallet also included white, plum, cream, and forest green.
Lubov had stated that the goal this fall was to make women feel strong and confident, using the idea to "explore the ethereal seduction of the dark side."

NYFW: Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2009

Lord almighty, how this fall's Marc Jacobs show was impeccable. Way better then last fall's show. This collection was Inspired by the eighties night clubbing era in New York City. But also you can see some maybe of a Harajuku girl's take on that era. With the gray sweatshirts with pagoda shoulders, neons, capes with scuba zipper details, and prom dresses with handkerchief hems.

The collection also featured floral brocades with flaring, full skirts and very bold shoulders, dresses in metallic leather, Crayola-bright jackets, capes, hooded coats, velvet bustier tops and high-waisted over-dyed jeans. Every girl wore a different hair style, you can definitly see some references to the styles coming from the movie Flock of Seagulls. Hairstyles included Mohawks, flips, beehives, and bouffants. The makeup was straight off the album cover of Duran Duran's Rio and The Rocky Horror Picture Show.
I really died over the shoes . The shoes seemed to come out of a fairy tale, I was thinking Peter Pan (?)
mostly because the style in which the front of the shoes were constructed and how some had a leaf-life top in which it seemed to almost coiled around the ankle. The sunglasses were spectacular as well, oversized and overly cool.

NYFW: Donna Karan Fall/Winter 2009

Donna Karan is not only moving towards the return of the body suit, but as well the return of shoulder pads for women. A woman who needs "a system of dressing like never before" is what she said this collection was designed for, the show was given the title"The Power of New York."
The collection was quite body concious, it starts out with a jacket or a draped jersey top, all quite exaggerated, sculpted shoulders with a wrapped or belted waist. There were long and lean skirts at every turn, these dresses seemed as if they could morph into a bodysuit. In stretch jerseys, they were draped and wrapped. Also in various sorts of styles, was featured a powerful triangular silhouette. Suits were also present, padded and round shoulders. Satin and jersey dresses that were sleek and comfortable looking were best and saved for last. Not too much vivid color was present in this collection, just one scarlet jacket and a purple dress. The footwear was exquisite, I love the leopard print that some had, it really threw some spice in the looks that were seen with them.

NYFW: Victoria Beckham Fall/Winter 2009

The ever so fabulous Victoria Beckham presented her second collection at the Waldorf Towers in New York this week. The guests were by appointment only and the collection featured 24 looks, 14 more then her first collection which featured 10 dresses, which sold out instantly upon release
at luxury stores like Selfridges and Bergdorf Goodman.
When asked about her collection, she spoke about channeling seaming, under-bust contouring, and zippers that unzip from top and bottom. Which were also featured in her first collection back in September. Beckham's main focus remains on sensual, curvy dresses that are timeless and won't date easily. Her collection had quite a lot of variety, adding shorter, and more relaxed looks. Inspired by her wedding gown, she added a glam gold to the bodice of a cocktail dress. Capes and Evening gowns were also featured, and some gowns had long sleeves.
My favorite outfit was the one with the rich magenta cape and black tights.

NWFW: Hervé Léger by Max Azria Fall/Winter 2009

Hervé Léger Bondage dresses have been splattered all over the red carpet, they've been seen on a number of celebrities. Especially in 2008. You'd think that there would be no where else to go with the bondage dress, but I guess that's not true. They actually stuck to the bankable dress. There were halters, criss cross halters, square neck and one-shouldered dresses, the plunging dress being the style most used.

Inspiration came from what the designers called, "the beat of an urban tribe". Which we can definitely see with intricate weaving and insets of exotic skins. Azria also experimented with built out square shoulders, which I'm sure everyone can agree, really reminded us of Balmain's Spring 2009 collection.

NYFW: Diane von Furstenberg Fall/Winter 2009

Diane von Furstenberg's collection was full of spice and pizazz, exactly what a girl needs in these serious times of economic crisis. Sending out various types of fabrics, embroideries and patterns - from camouflages to tapestry prints to leopard, the designer named her collection "Nomad". Being sweet with comfort, her collection was filled with wrap dresses, bubbles,
tunic-miniskirt combinations, sacks, slouchy cardigans and cocoon coats. Also featured in the collection were leggings and knit tights, which came in various prints such as leopard, and were also featured in leather. Models wore pompom-covered knit hats and the closing outfit was a stunning metallic ombré liquid jersey gown.

NYFW: Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2009

Alexander Wang definitely is one of my favorite designers to present at New York Fashion Week. For Wang's edgy clothes and fabulous crowds, what better place to present it in other then the place that witnessed generations of cool kids, loud music, and smoky late nights, the Roseland Ballroom in NYC. This collection was very luxurious and very well tailored. Rock Chic but definitely way more refined. There was fur, feathers, sequins, assymetric dresses, leathers fringed with foxtails, and jackets with sleeves edged in cubed metal rivets. With matching shoes, belts and bags...It was very well coordinated. Wang is the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund's latest big winner, 2009 has been a great year for Alexander so far. Alexander Wang is definitly moving foward, this fall his collection was very much more mature and polished, yet still didn't loose his signature edge.

NYFW: Rag & Bone Fall/Winter 2009

Marcus Wainwright and David Neville's did an exquisite job at Rag & Bone this season, the collection this season was very vital and modern, judging from last season's English eighties-pop subcultures revival. Inspiration this season came after a trip to Japan for the two designers.The collection was very wearable yet very stylish and up to date. I love when those two elements are used when producing a collection. It was very edgy, the black wool herringbone tuxedo dress was fantastic. Yet there were also quite feminine delicate looks as well, like the printed silk dress and a skirt in the same fabric topped by a cocoon-y navy kimono cardigan.

NYFW: Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2009

I'm sure everyone has already heard the buzz on how Jason Wu's life changed when Michelle Obama wore the designer's one-shoulder organza-embroidered white chiffon gown to the inaugural balls. Although the first lady was not present at the show, there were more big-time editors in the front row, in a crowd that was larger then usual. He said fairy tales, particularly a book of illustrations by Arthur Rackham that he had as a child was his source of inspiration. Also adding that dresses, now more then ever, was his largest focus. A pair of body-skimming sheaths, the more dramatic in a gray cashmere mini-check with lacy black epaulets, as well as a couple of away-from-the-body flapper dress, and two cartridge-pleated looks in chartreuse and violet with jet beading at the hems. Closing the show was a princess gown with sweeping skirts in midnight blue and silver point d'esprit. Any of those would definitely please a fairy tale princess.
Make-up was a flawless pale face, a stained lip and cotton candy blush.

NYFW: BCBG Max Azria Fall/Winter 2009

Max and Lubov's fall BCBG collection was lovely. Obviously shapes played an important role in the construction of this collection. With bands of trapunto stitching, and jutting sharp lines on shoulders, Models paraded down the runway with metallic lamé leggings. There were touches also of shibori tie-die and pleating.
This collection was great BUT I did think they moved too fast away for what BCBG is known for, contemporary feminine lightness. This collection was pretty hard. My favorite look was worn by Anabela Belikova, it's the first look in the photos below. I really did love the footwear, I haven't found detail shots yet but from the front they look stunning.

NYFW: Acne Fall/Winter 2009

Swedish fashion designer, Jonny Johansson of Acne, who's known for having infiltrated the international denim, T-shirt, and well-priced separates market presented an exquisite collection this week. By far my favorite collection this fall. What Jonny presented was without a doubt, a very far cry from jeanswear denim. His inspiration came from the kind of girls who populate the Berlin art scene and an image of an old man with his hands covered in rings he had seen in the Café de Flore in Paris. The collection consisted of very well-cut tailored overcoats, seventies high-waisted pantsuits, plastic jeans, chunky gold and diamond jewelry which were a collaboration with the German artist-goldsmith, Michael Zobel. The footwear was simply heavenly. This collection was very edgy, with some hints of futurism and architecture.
Other accessories were huge cuffs, very elaborate rings big enough to take up two fingers, and pins that drew quite a lot of attention, which were shaped as saucers and boxes, encrusted with rough diamonds, Tahitian pearls, emeralds, seashells, or rough-hewn slabs of semiprecious stones.
Using such precious jewels might seem a bit reckless in these times of recession and an economic crisis, but according to Johansson, he's only only following the instincts that have driven him to success since he started in 1993.

NYFW: Monique Lhuillier Fall/Winter 2009

The epitome of high class and elegance is all I can say to describe Monique Lhuillier's fall/winter 2009 collection. The collection was breath taking, definitely a hand full of incredible red carpet dresses. For the first time in ten seasons, Monique strayed away from her 30 looks at Bryant Park and opted of a mini-presentation at the Plaza's Oak Room ( which is simply divine). The collection was themed Modern Ballets Russes and had a lot of "that something special" that many designers now believe is necessary and key. There were very elaborate dresses, with embroideries galore, and horsehair-stiffened skirts on full dresses. There were also more discreet looks, like an open-back black silk jersey column ( which I thought was very similar to Lanvin the moment I saw it ). I really loved the layering with tangles of necklaces and snagged body stockings.

NYFW: Jenni Kayne Fall/Winter 2009

Going back to basics was Jenni Kayne's goal for this fall. Not very difficult considering she's known for easy to pull on and pull of day-to-night separates. Coats and blazers had fur and bead-embellished sleeves. The collection felt very fresh and young. Modern yet not over trendy. Kayne also launched shoes for the first time this season. Which had a dashing sharp design, yet hold a price range of under $500. I really loved this collection, it was very chic yet fun. A lot of models wore this necklace that consisted of seven olive spheres. I thought the high waisted leather skirt and feathered dress was lovely. The color pallet was quite muted, although there was one dress that was a very royal blue. The standout presentation was held at the Kayne family Upper East Side residence.