Friday, March 6, 2009

PFW: Nina Ricci Fall/Winter 2009

Olivier Theyskens presented a moonlit, magical, darkly romantic collection this season. Probably the most mature and salable collection he's designed to date for Nina Ricci. It's a pity to say that Olivier's management let him go and his collection this Thursday was his last for the house of Nina Ricci.
The collection featured blazers, their edge sometimes tempered by a topping of cozy knits and skinny pants; strong shoulders, while some were sharp, others were rounder, with padded curves. Jackets were featured in leathers with tails and a thick, double-breasted tweed slashed with strokes of glitter. The color pallet consisted of purple, black and olive green shot with the occasional bright and lots of shine. Closer to the end, there was a parade of elaborate number came down the runway. Like the beaded top and iridescent skirt combo which was memorizing. Or the gown done with a cascade of ruffles done in brazen red. Another bold statement was obviously the footwear. Which I don't even know where to begin. They were laced up sky-high platform shoes and booties, in black, gold and glittering fuchsia. And a crescent moon shaped or sickle-shaped hole at the back, where the heels should originally have been. I thought it was genius. My favorite look was worn by model Anabela Belikova, it was a skin tight glittery jumpsuit, done in a sort of patch-work fashion, with a leather coat and booties. Which is the first look in the third set of photos below.
This collection really expressed Olivier Theyskens' potential as a designer, which obviously is a force to be reckoned with.

No comments: